I'd get the one that has the best color to match the rest of your gear. I'm not sure but I think BD enlarged their release hole a little bit but I can't guarantee that you can girth a dyneema through it. Personally I just skip unlocking it with a biner and prefer to girth hitch a dyneema sling through it - something that used to be impossible with the Guide due to the small hole. If you want a versatile option at a fantastic price, this is the one we recommend. It's meant to accept the nose of a Petzl biner into the hole and use the biner as a lever. The ATC Guide is also slightly heavier than its closest and most popular competition, the Petzl Reverso, but we think the extra durability is worth adding a couple tenths of an ounce. The bigger hole in the R3 is nice but you can't really get a full biner in there. The Guide will be sitting facing the sides.Īgain, it's something small but it's part of the design difference. To the other side of the biner you clip your horizontally oriented holed R3, leaving the device sitting flat. You clip a biner to it vertically oriented. The loops of chord should be oriented horizontally. Picture this: use a cordalette for your anchor, tie a figure-8 on a bight to make your anchor point. 73 OVERALL SCORE RANKED 7 of 17 Catch and Bite - 30 5.0 Lowering and Rappelling - 30 9.0 Feeding Slack - 20 9.0 Weight and Bulk - 10 9.0 Auto Block - 10 4.0 RELATED: Best Climbing Belay Device of 2023 Our Verdict The DMM Pivot is a tube-style belay device with auto-blocking capabilities. Currently it is tough to feed my 10.2mm rope through the R3.Īlthough it's been a while since I used the Guide the orientation of the anchor clip in the Reverso3 is such that when you clip it to your anchor it sits straight instead of at an angle. Our results: NOTE: The 10.0mm static BD rope used in the following tests breaks in a figure 8 at at 17kn PETZL REVERSO 4 ( Normal belay mode: slips while holding tail at 2kn and 2.5kn Normal belay mode: breaks rope at 10.64kn with tail at 3.12kn Double rope 'rappel': breaks ropes at 19.59kn with tail at 6. This skill can be done with other devices and MUST be practices to. On a subjective point from what I remember it seemed like the Guide was stickier. 610 Description 46K views 3 years ago Check out a useful skill to switch for rappel to ascend with the Black Diamond Guide ATC. Now I have a bright green (matches my jacket) Reverso3. I had and used the Guide before dropping it on a route.
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